Phnom Pehn. The Real Cambodia.

One of the reasons why we ended up in Phnom Penh was probably because how many travelers do, Bangkok Airways is just too damn expensive. For about a fifth of the price to fly to Siem Reap on Bangkok Airways ($450 USD/ return), we easily opted for Air Asia to Phnom Penh from Bangkok ($75 USD/ return).

Phnom Penh is a bit rough and definitely shows the aftermath of the 1970’s. For those that don’t know (because I didn’t), when America bombed the shit out of Vietnam they also bombed the shit out of Cambodia where the Khmer Rouge (communist influence) fled. The Khmer Rouge headed south where they enslaved, brainwashed, and killed hundreds of thousands of their own people. This was an indirect result of the Vietnam War and is very disturbing to understand. I don’t know if I’ll ever completely understand this chapter of history, but after seeing the movie “The Killing Fields” I got the basics.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

One of the main tourist attractions and a place in which I found truly appalling was the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. Skulls lined up top to bottom of the memorial, clothes and bone remains in the ground, photos of innocent victims of genocide, mass graves, and the tools of torture is what I saw. What bothered me the most is that this event is so recent in the sense that it is still happening today in Sudan, Iraq, Palestine, Tibet, and many parts of the world. Why is it that genocide and human suffering are so often ignored?

Poor Squirrel

Aside from political concerns, I found the whole visit to Phnom Penh worth the trip as I had my taste of most of the poor economic situation in Cambodia. While heading back from the killing fields, our Tuk-Tuk (which I do not recommend taking from the city center because you’ll choke on dirt roads) decided to stop as a man standing in the road had instructed. We sat there and watched as the locals sawed a large tree apart and then it collapsing to the ground making a vibrating impact. After the tree fell, we witnessed the locals chase a squirrel out of the tree, kill the squirrel, and then bring it into their house. Apparently squirrel is something they normally eat. Yeah, isn’t that’s crazy.

This event and the experience of driving to the killing fields was just as moving, witnessing the real Cambodia. We were not in Angkor Wat anymore. I think everyone should experience something like this at least once to get grounded and appreciate life. But then again these people don’t work nearly as much as westerners, spend time with the family, and just live a life…so then again who are the fortunate ones? And, who is to say that our situation of work, work, work, is any better?

The Killers Still Lurk

So many thoughts cross my mind when I travel and this is why I love it so much. One thought that crossed my mind was after seeing the movie “The Killing Fields” and noticing that Cambodians still wear the same red head scarf that resembled the Khmer Rouge. It’s interesting that people still wear the same scarf today from 30 years ago. But more controversially speaking, these people are the same individuals who likely killed their own 30 years ago. I found it very hard to grasp the thought they have really changed.

Anyone in the ages of 35-50 today were likely part of the Khmer Rouge then and it is just hard for me to agree that these people have recovered and forgotten about the past. I am sure it is still haunts and lives with them. After thinking that the older people in Cambodia are the same people who killed made me feel uncomfortable, but I am willing to accept the fact that the country has put it all aside. The story of how Cambodia changed after the war is probably a good story I would find to be very interesting.

Everyone Wants To Be A Tuk Tuk Driver

Aside from the poverty-stricken economic situation, the UN having a headquarters in town, a semi-“Hotel Riwanda-ish” feel, and the noticeably less-developed livelihood, people do smile which is great to see but they do seem a little bit desperate for change. One example is how they are eager to make some money chasing down tourists for Tuk Tuks. It’s quite sad but that’s the situation… they are hungry and wanting to work. Some Tuk-Tuk’s wanted to book our business days ahead upon returning from Angkor Wat. We couldn’t resist booking a few Tuk-Tuks because so many had almost forced it upon us. When we arrived from Angkor Wat, we went with the first Tuk-Tuk we saw and then ran into the others we had promised… not a pretty site. And I constantly asked myself… why does everyone want to be a Tuk-Tuk? Why can’t some people make some souvenirs or other things in which tourists may want? I found this very interesting and an obvious sign there is currently a huge lack of creativity in regards to small business ideas in Cambodia.

But in Angkor Wat especially there is so much competition that the Tuk-Tuk’s bend over backwards to get business and are willing to wait outside in the early morning hours like there was nothing else they would rather do. I know “desperate” could be used as a degrading word but I think in a positive way, it’s a good thing and shows that Cambodia is country that wants to better themselves and is willing to work for it. They are “desperate” to make money, work hard, and strive to better themselves.

A Sense of Waiting To Be Led

The rest of the people I felt are just waiting to be led and at any time, at a flip of a switch, could be back to the 1970’s… no joke, I felt it. Or maybe it was their lifestyle shining through, one that is based on the present because in the recent past they were at a point where they didn’t know if they were going to live another day. I know some people won’t agree but it seems Cambodia needs a strong influential politician or icon all the people could follow, this is what the country really needs… someone to follow. This is just the way I felt while in Cambodia.

A Westernized King

The King of Cambodia is apparently not respected the same as the Thais respect The King of Thailand. Cambodia’s King is much younger and may not relate to the people as he is a bit more Western, having lived outside the country and then returning to be seated. Some Cambodians respect and honor him however some apparently don’t. Visually he is not as present as The King of Thailand, and that’s how it is

Smiling Peoples

Aside from the older generation having a sense of waiting to be led, the youth of Cambodia and most of the people are quite playful, as it seems. Perhaps happy on the surface but at least they are happy and showing it. Seeing the kids is a way of making me feel that the country is definitely headed towards a change and the new generation will provide the new future of Cambodia. The kids were absolutely adorable and being just kids, smiling and playing, etc.

Even though the Vietnam War affected this country almost 30 years ago I feel this country is slowly recovering. Just driving around at night and seeing the lights, I had visions of a beautiful Phnom Penh with main boulevards and upside potential. The layout is intact but unfortunately there is not much foreign investment to help the city dramatically develop, as it seems. I wonder what Phnom Penh looked before the Khmer Rouge invaded it in the 1970’s. I bet the city was very beautiful with its French influence. Some of the French influence is still around the city in bits and pieces, but I could imagine it must have been really beautiful. Today that is not nearly the case and is very run down… but getting better.

The Bus Is A Must.

Phnom Penh is definitely worth a visit if you’re thinking of going to visit Angkor Wat. It’s a 5-hour bus ride from Siem Reap and the bus will take you through the Cambodian countryside, which is a good way of seeing the livelihood of the people. I recommend seeing Phnom Penh because the journey will show you the real Cambodia.

Trip Wrap-Up

Incidental Money Spent
Plane ticket Bangkok to Phnom Penh - $75
Bus to Seim Reap - $6
Motorbike Taxi to town - $1
Happy Pizza - $4
Tuk Tuk to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek - $5

I Will Always Remember
Streets flooded after a short heavy rain
The Killing Fields
The “fresh” meat and fish market
A distinctive smell
Driving around a Tuk Tuk late at night with fear.
Noticing the clock on Wat Phnom

Photos of Wat Phnom, The Market, and The Killing Fields of Phnom Pehn